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Amigurumi goose with a hidden pocket, worked in single crochet
Dense Amigurumi

60 rounds · filed under dense · 52 of them

DenseNo feel

Amigurumi · added 3 Oct 2026

Amigurumi goose with a hidden pocket, worked in single crochet

Single crochet builds the dense, stuffable fabric of this amigurumi goose, complete with a hidden pocket pouch.

Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
3.25 mm
Yarn
DK
Rounds
56

About this pattern

Single crochet carries almost every part of this goose — feet, tail, wings' base sections, neck, and head — and it packs the loops tight enough that stuffing never pushes through. Worked in a continuous spiral, the fabric has no seam line running up the back of the head or down the feet, just an unbroken close grid that holds its shape between your fingers. Where the wings shift into half double and double crochet, the fabric opens up, the loops stand taller and looser, giving that one section more spring and a visible ridge where the stitch height changes.

The body builds as two flat panels — a front worked over seven rounds and a smaller back of just two — joined edge to edge with slip stitch, leaving a gap for the pocket. The rest assembles as rounded, stuffed sections: egg-shaped feet built from three joined toes, a layered tail, and a head that tapers up from the neck. Stuff the spiral parts firmly before closing them, then sew everything to the joined body panels, leaving the pocket opening clear for a zipper or a pair of buttons.

The swatch in numbers

Rounds
56
Parts
6
Level
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
3.25 mm
Yarn
DK

The yarn and the hook

  1. Yarn (main): WOLANS BUNNY BABY — white, approximately 1.5 skeins (DK / Light Worsted weight; soft, fluffy fiber recommended)
  2. Yarn (accent): GAZZAL BABY COTTON — orange (for feet and beak) and brown (for eye embroidery); small amounts of each (Sport / DK weight)
  3. Hook (main): US D-3 / 3.25 mm or US E-4 / 3.5 mm — for main body pieces
  4. Hook (detail): US B-1 / 2.0 mm — for feet and beak
  5. Closure: One small zipper for the pocket opening, OR 2 small buttons

Stuffing

  1. Polyfill fiberfill (hollowfiber, or any soft stuffing of your choice)
  2. Yarn needle / tapestry needle — for sewing parts and embroidering details
  3. Stitch markers
  4. Scissors

Stitches, spelled out

ch Chain; dc Double CrochetDrape; dec Invisible Decrease (insert hook in front loop of next 2 sts, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops); hdc Half Double CrochetDense; inc Increase (2 sc in the same stitch); MR Magic RingDense; sc Single CrochetDense; sl st Slip Stitch; SM Stitch Marker.

Tension and hand-feel

After Round 2 of any spiral piece, lay the circle flat and check that it sits without buckling or cupping in the middle — the stitches should look like they belong on a flat plane, not a bowl.

If it cups, your tension is too tight and the next rounds will draw in; if it ruffles at the edge, go down a hook size until the disc lies flat before moving on.

Feet

Make 2

Use GAZZAL BABY COTTON (orange) and US B-1 / 2.0 mm hook.

Stuff lightly as you work.

Crochet three toes for each foot, then join them together.

Set aside. Make the second foot the same way. Both feet will be crocheted directly into the body.

Round 1Middle Toe MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2Middle Toe Inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3Middle Toe Sc in each st around. (12); cut yarn and fasten off.
Round 1Side Toe - make 2 MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2Side Toe - make 2 (Inc, sc) x 3. (9); cut yarn and fasten off on one toe. Do not cut yarn on the second toe — this will be your working piece.
Round 1Joining round Continue along the second side toe: 5 sc; join middle toe: 6 sc across; join first side toe: 9 sc across; work back across the underside of the middle toe and second side toe: 6 sc, then 4 sc respectively. (30); place stitch marker here.
Rounds 2–5Sc in each st around. (30); at the end of Round 5, work 1 shift stitch to align to the side of the piece.
Round 6(2 sc, dec, 6 sc) x 3. (27)
Round 7Sc in each st around. (27)
Round 8(6 sc, dec, sc) x 3. (24)
Round 9Sc in each st around. (24)
Round 10(2 sc, dec, 4 sc) x 3. (21)
Round 11Sc in each st around. (21)
Round 12(5 sc, dec) x 3. (18)
Rounds 13–15Sc in each st around. (18); at the end of Round 15, work 1 shift stitch and change to WOLANS BUNNY BABY (white). Do not change hook size yet.
Round 16Sc in each st around. (18); now change to US D-3 / 3.25 mm or E-4 / 3.5 mm hook.
Rounds 17–21Sc in each st around. (18); at the end of Round 21, work shift stitches to bring the yarn to the side of the piece.
Round 22Closing Fold the piece flat; working through both layers, sc through the loops of both sides: 8 sc to close the top of the foot.

Tail

Use WOLANS BUNNY BABY (white). Do not stuff.

Crochet three sections and join them, just like the feet.

Set aside. The tail will be crocheted directly into the back body panel.

Round 1Middle Section Ch 2, work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. (6)
Round 2Middle Section Inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3Middle Section Sc in each st around. (12); cut yarn and fasten off.
Round 1Side Section - make 2 MR, 6 sc. (6)
Round 2Side Section - make 2 (Inc, sc) x 3. (9); cut yarn and fasten off on one section. Leave yarn attached on the second.
Round 1Joining round Continue along the second side section: 5 sc; join middle section: 6 sc; join first side section: 9 sc; work back along the underside of the middle section and second side section: 6 sc, then 4 sc respectively. (30); place stitch marker here.
Rounds 2–5Sc in each st around. (30); at the end of Round 5, work 3 shift stitches to bring yarn to the side of the piece.
Round 6Closing Fold the tail flat; working through both layers, sc through the loops of both sides: 14 sc to close the top of the tail.

Wings

Make 2

Use WOLANS BUNNY BABY (white). Do not stuff.

Crochet three small sections, then join them.

Make the second wing the same way.

Round 1All three sections Ch 2, work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. (6)
Round 2All three sections (Inc, sc) x 3. (9); cut yarn and fasten off on two sections. Leave yarn attached on the third.
Round 1Joining round Continue along the third section: 5 sc; join the second section: 5 sc; join the first section: 9 sc; work back along the underside of the second and third sections: 4 sc each. (27); place stitch marker here.
Round 25 sc, 4 hdc, 10 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc. (27)
Round 3Dec, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, dec (worked in dc), 4 dc, 4 hdc, 3 sc. (24); leave one stitch of Round 2 unworked.
Round 42 dec, 2 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc, 2 dec (worked in dc), 3 dc, 3 hdc, 3 sc. (21)
Round 5Closing Work 1-2 shift stitches to bring yarn to the side of the piece; fold flat and sc through both layers: 9 sc; sl st to finish.

Body — Front Panel

Use WOLANS BUNNY BABY (white). Work flat in turned rows.

Turning chains at the start of each row do not count as stitches.

Decreases are worked in hdc.

Round 1Ch 22, starting in the 3rd ch from hook, work 20 hdc. (20)
Rounds 2–12Ch 2, turn; 20 hdc. (20)
Round 13Ch 2, turn; hdc, dec, 14 hdc, dec, hdc. (18)
Round 14Ch 2, turn; hdc, dec, 12 hdc, dec, hdc. (16)
Round 15Ch 2, turn; hdc, dec, 10 hdc, dec, hdc. (14)
Round 16Ch 2, turn; hdc, dec, 8 hdc, dec, hdc. (12); do not cut yarn.
Round 17Edging and foot attachment Work sc evenly along the side edge of the panel down to the lower edge; position the first foot against the lower edge and work 8 sc through both the panel edge and the foot top together; work 4 sc along the bottom edge of the panel; position the second foot and work 8 sc through both the panel edge and the second foot together; continue sc along the remaining side edge; cut yarn and fasten off.

Neck and Head

Continue from the body join without cutting yarn, working in a continuous spiral.

If you'd like a longer neck, repeat Round 5 two or three more times before continuing.

Round 1Turn so the back of the body faces you; working into the half-loops of the edging, work 12 sc across the back panel; turn so the front faces you and work 12 sc across the front panel in the same way. (24)
Round 2(5 sc, dec, 5 sc) x 2. (22)
Round 3(9 sc, dec) x 2. (20)
Round 4(4 sc, dec, 4 sc) x 2. (18)
Round 5Sc in each st around. (18)
Round 6(Inc, sc) x 5, 8 sc. (23)
Round 7(Sc, inc, sc) x 5, 8 sc. (28)
Round 8(Inc, 2 sc) x 8, 4 sc. (36)
Rounds 9–15Sc in each st around. (36)
Round 16(Dec, 3 sc) x 6, 6 sc. (30)
Round 17(Dec, 2 sc) x 6, 6 sc. (24)
Round 18(Dec, sc) x 6, 6 sc. (18)
Round 19(Dec, sc) x 6. (12)
Round 20Dec x 6. (6); cut yarn and pull through the half-loops of remaining stitches.

Body — Back Panel

Work Rows 1–16 exactly as the Front Panel.

Rounds 1–16Work exactly as the Front Panel Rows 1-16.
Round 17Edging and wing/tail attachment Work 6 sc along the side edge; position the first wing against the body and work 10 sc through both the edge and wing top together; continue sc along the edge to the lower side; along the lower edge: 3 sc, then work 14 sc through both the lower edge and the tail top together, then 3 sc; continue up the remaining side edge; position the second wing and work 10 sc through both the edge and wing top together; work 6 sc to complete the edging; do not cut yarn.

How the texture is built

  • The feet and tail both build from three separate spiral sections — one middle piece and two side pieces — joined into a single working round rather than shaped with increases alone; this is what gives the splayed, multi-toe silhouette instead of a plain cone.
  • The wing's joining round combines three sections into 27 stitches, then Round 2 swaps a run of single crochet for half double and double crochet along the top edge, raising that portion of the fabric to create a curved, feathered profile rather than a flat oval.
  • The body is worked as two unequal flat panels — seven rounds for the front, two for the back — joined by slip stitch with a deliberate gap left in the seam; the shallow back panel exists only to close the pocket, not to carry its own shaping.

Putting the pieces together

Step 1Place the front and back panels together with wrong sides facing each other. Draw the working loop of the back panel through the corresponding stitch of the front panel.
Step 2Work sl st along the edges, catching stitches from both panels together, working toward the lower edge.
Step 3Leave an opening of the desired width for the pocket access. Once you reach the opening, continue working sl st along the back panel edge only to span the opening width, then resume working through both panels together until you return to where you began joining.
Step 4Do not cut yarn — continue directly into the neck and head.

If you swap the yarn

cotton DKStitches firm up and show more definition, drape drops to almost none, stuffing stays fully hidden, and the same D-3/3.25 mm or E-4/3.5 mm hook still suits the body.
acrylic worstedThe toy grows slightly larger at the same stitch count, the surface loses the soft halo of the baby yarn, and a hook one size up keeps the fabric from stiffening.
fuzzy chenille-style baby yarnThe nap thickens and hides stitch detail almost completely, the finished piece needs a touch more stuffing to hold its shape through the looser loops, and sizing up the main hook keeps the fabric from becoming too dense to shape.

Colorways

  • Classic goose White for the full body, feet, tail, wings, and head; orange for the feet soles and beak; brown for the embroidered eyes.
  • Monochrome goose White for the body, tail, wings, and head as given; a pale gray in place of orange for the feet and beak; a darker gray in place of brown for the eyes.

Washing and blocking

Hand wash in cool water and avoid wringing the soft main yarn, since twisting can flatten the fluffy nap permanently.

Reshape the feet, wings, and head by hand while still damp, then dry flat so the stuffing settles evenly instead of sagging to one side.

Store away from direct sunlight to keep the white main yarn from yellowing, and keep the pocket closure fastened so the opening doesn't stretch out of shape in storage.

When it does not look right

A wing lies flat instead of curving along its top edge
The half double and double crochet stitches in Round 2 of the joining section were worked as plain single crochet; recount the 27 stitches from the joining round and place the taller stitches exactly where the pattern marks them.
The three toes on a foot splay unevenly
The side toes were joined to the middle toe at uneven points in the round; space the join evenly around the middle toe's 12 stitches before continuing to stuff and close.
The pocket opening puckers along one edge
The two-round back panel is being stretched to match the seven-round front panel without easing; slip stitch the seam a little looser along the back panel edge so neither panel pulls tight.

Close-ups

Amigurumi goose with a hidden pocket, worked in single crochet — photo 2
Amigurumi goose with a hidden pocket, worked in single crochet — photo 3

Questions people ask

Why does the front panel have seven rounds but the back panel only two?

The front panel carries the body's main shaping, while the shallow back panel exists mainly to close the pocket opening. Joining the two by slip stitch, with a gap left unworked, is what forms the pocket access.

Can the zipper or buttons be left out of the pocket opening?

Yes, the opening will still work as a pocket without either closure. Without one, though, the gap stays open and small items can slip back out.

Do the wings need any wire or stiffener to hold their curve?

No, the half double and double crochet round in the wing construction raises the fabric enough on its own to hold a curved profile. Stuffing is not used in the wings, so the stitch height alone carries the shape.

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