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Chunky double crochet sweater with ribbed cuffs and hem
Ridge Sweaters

33 rounds · filed under ridge · 10 of them

RidgeDenseDrapeNo feel

Sweaters · added 4 Oct 2026

Chunky double crochet sweater with ribbed cuffs and hem

Double crochet builds a thick, springy fabric with ribbed single crochet trim for a cozy, adjustable-fit pullover sweater.

Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
6 mm
Yarn
Chunky
Rounds
20

About this pattern

Under your hand this sweater sits heavy and dense, the kind of fabric that holds its shape without folding over itself. Double crochet is doing the work here, stacking tall and close so the body panels come out thick and a little stiff, almost board-like straight off the hook before seaming softens it. The ribbed single crochet sections at cuff and hem behave differently entirely, compressing into a stretchy band that grips the wrist and waist while the main panels stay open and roomy.

The shape comes together as four flat rectangles: two body panels and two sleeves, each built bottom-up with a ribbed starting edge before the main stitch takes over. Lay the panels out before seaming and you will see the ribbing pull in while the dc sections sit wide and flat, so expect a boxy torso with fitted cuffs and hem. Measurements can be adjusted to suit a fitted, cropped style or a relaxed, everyday length, and once the side seams, shoulders, and sleeve joins are slip stitched, the whole thing drapes with weight rather than cling.

The swatch in numbers

Rounds
20
Parts
2
Level
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
6 mm
Yarn
Chunky

The yarn and the hook

  1. 6 mm hook
  2. Chunky acrylic yarn, about 4 to 5 balls
  3. Tape measure
  4. Scissors
  5. Stitch marker
  6. Darning needle

Stitches, spelled out

ch chain; sc single crochetDense; dc double crochetDrape; sl st slip stitch.

Tension and hand-feel

After finishing the ribbing on either the sleeve or body panel, lay it flat and check that it measures close to 2 inches before the stitch count was set, then confirm the main double crochet section reaches close to 44 stitches across on the sleeve without the fabric bowing or cupping.

Sleeves

Make 2
Round 1Ribbing Make a slipknot; chain 9 or any chain length equal to 2 inches; work single crochet in the second chain from the hook and continue to the end.
Round 2Ribbing Chain 1, turn, and work front loop single crochet across.
Round 3Ribbing Repeat until the ribbing measures 10 inches or matches your wrist size.
Round 4Main Sleeve Section Chain 3 and work double crochet across the row; aim for about 44 stitches or add more if increasing size. (44 dc)
Round 5Main Sleeve Section Chain 1 and turn; work the turning stitch by placing one single crochet, then a second single crochet in the back loop of the same stitch; work one double crochet into the same stitch to create the first increase, then double crochet across the row; place two double crochets in the last stitch for the second increase.
Round 6Main Sleeve Section Continue repeating increase rows at both ends until the width matches your upper arm measurement.
Round 7Main Sleeve Section When the width is correct, continue working straight double crochet rows until the full sleeve length is reached.

Main Body Panel (Front and Back)

Make 2
Round 1Ribbing Make a slipknot and chain 9 or any chain length equal to 2 inches; single crochet in the second chain from the hook and across.
Round 2Ribbing Chain 1, turn, and work front loop single crochet.
Round 3Ribbing Repeat until the ribbing matches your hip to hip or waist measurement.
Round 4Main Body Section Chain 3, turn, and work double crochet across without adding extra stitches.
Round 5Main Body Section For each new row, chain 1, turn, and work the turning stitch using single crochet, then single crochet in the back loop of the same stitch; continue with double crochet across.
Round 6Main Body Section Work straight rows until you reach the height needed before shaping the neck.
Round 7Neck Shaping, Front Panel Fold the panel in half and place a marker at the center; measure 3.5 inches to the left of the center and place a marker; measure 3.5 inches to the right of the center and place another marker creating a 7 inch neck opening.
Round 8Neck Shaping, Front Panel Work the turning stitch and double crochet across stopping two stitches before the first marker; work a double crochet decrease over the last two stitches.
Round 9Neck Shaping, Front Panel Chain 3, turn, skip the first stitch, and work double crochet across.
Round 10Neck Shaping, Front Panel Repeat one decrease row and one normal row until the shoulder width is reached.
Round 11Neck Shaping, Front Panel Fasten off and attach yarn on the opposite side of the neck opening.
Round 12Neck Shaping, Front Panel Chain 3 and work a double crochet decrease at the start, then continue double crochet across.
Round 13Neck Shaping, Front Panel Repeat the four row sequence until both shoulders match in width.

How the texture is built

  • Each sleeve gains its width only once, in the first main-section row after ribbing, where a single crochet turning stitch doubles at each end to add the first and second increase before settling into straight double crochet for the remaining rounds.
  • Both the sleeve and body panels start with rows of single crochet worked into the front loop only, a ribbing technique that only works flat and row-by-row rather than in the round, which is why the pattern turns at the end of every ribbing row.
  • The main body panels are worked without any increases after the ribbing, so the dc section stays a constant width for all remaining rows, meaning the shaping in this garment comes entirely from the ribbing width and the sleeve increase, not from the body.

Putting the pieces together

Step 1Place the front and back panels together with right sides facing each other.
Step 2Measure and mark the armhole placement using sleeve width.
Step 3Slip stitch the side seams from bottom ribbing up to the armhole marker.
Step 4Repeat on the other side.
Step 5Slip stitch the shoulders together from the neck edge to the sleeve edge.
Step 6Turn the body inside out and position the sleeve at the armpit; secure with a marker.
Step 7Attach yarn and slip stitch around the armhole to join sleeve and body.
Step 8Continue slip stitching down the underside of the sleeve to the wrist.
Step 9Fasten off and repeat for the second sleeve.
Step 10Neck Ribbing: Attach yarn anywhere on the back of the neck and chain 1.
Step 11Work single crochet around the entire neck opening and slip stitch to join.
Step 12Chain 1, turn, and work another round of single crochet; slip stitch to join.
Step 13Fasten off and weave in all ends.

If you swap the yarn

Chunky wool blendAdds loft and a slight halo to the dc panels, keeps the same hook size, but the ribbing will cling more and felt slightly with washing.
Worsted-weight acrylic, held doubleApproximates the same chunky thickness with more stitch definition in the dc rows, pair with a 6 mm hook, and expect a firmer, less airy ribbing.
Chunky cotton blendDrops the drape lower and heavier on the body panels, drains the stretch out of the ribbed cuffs, so size up the hook slightly to keep the fabric from going stiff.

Colorways

  • Contrast sleeve block Keep the two body panels in pink throughout, then work both sleeves entirely in a contrasting neutral, so the dense double crochet torso and the increase-shaped sleeves sit in two distinct colors side by side.

Washing and blocking

Hand wash the acrylic yarn in cool water, since machine agitation can felt the ribbed sections where stitches sit close together.

Lay the sweater flat to dry rather than hanging it, so the weight of the wet chunky dc panels does not stretch the shoulders or sleeve length.

Fold rather than hang in storage, since a dense chunky acrylic fabric like this will hold a hanger's shoulder bumps over time.

When it does not look right

The sleeve flares oddly at one end
The width increase happens in a single row through the doubled turning stitch and the last-stitch increase; work that row exactly once rather than repeating it across multiple rows.
The side seam puckers or the armhole sits in the wrong spot
The armhole placement depends on a marker set from sleeve width measured before joining; remeasure and remark before slip stitching rather than guessing the seam line by eye.

Questions people ask

Why does the ribbing use front loop only instead of both loops?

Working into the front loop only leaves a ridge of back loops exposed, which is what makes the cuff and hem compress and stretch instead of sitting flat like the main double crochet panels. Skipping this step would give you a ribbing that looks the same as the body.

Can the sleeve and body panels be worked in the round instead of flat?

Not with this construction, since the ribbing rows turn at the end of every row to keep the front-loop pattern consistent on both sides. Working in the round would hide the texture the front-loop stitch is meant to create.

How much yarn should you have on hand before starting?

Plan on 4 to 5 balls of chunky acrylic to cover both body panels and both sleeves with enough left for seaming. Buying one extra ball covers tension differences between knitters working slightly looser or tighter.

Does the fabric feel stretchy all over or just at the edges?

Only the ribbed cuff and hem sections stretch, since front-loop single crochet is built to compress and give. The double crochet body of the sleeves and panels stays dense and holds its width without give.

New patterns, as they are filed

One short email when a batch lands, with the feel of each.