11 rounds · filed under drape · 4 of them
Sweaters & Cardigans · added 12 Oct 2026
Open cardigan in mohair cloud lace stitch
Cloud lace fan stitch builds a light, airy halo in mohair held double, worked into a relaxed open-front cardigan.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Time
- 4-6 hours
- Hook
- 4.5 mm
- Yarn
- Lace (held double)
- Rounds
- 7
About this pattern
Under the hand this fabric is airy rather than dense. The Cloud Lace sequence alternates a solid row with a mesh row and a fan row, so the surface shifts between firm ridges and open gaps you can see light through. The fan row is doing the real work here: five double crochets fanning from one stitch, then collapsed back down with sc5tog, which is what gives the panel its soft, rippled drape instead of a flat slab of stitches.
The shape is three flat rectangles — one wide back, two narrower fronts — joined at the shoulders and seamed only partway up the sides, so the armholes stay open and deep. Wear it loose over a camisole or T-shirt and let the open front hang without a button band; the drop armhole and wide sleeve are built to let fabric move rather than cling.
The swatch in numbers
- Rounds
- 7
- Parts
- 11
- Level
- Intermediate
- Time
- 4-6 hours
- Hook
- 4.5 mm
- Yarn
- Lace (held double)
The yarn and the hook
- Lace-weight mohair, mohair-silk, or similar fuzzy yarn, held double
- 4.5 mm US 7 crochet hook
- Removable stitch markers
- Yarn needle with a blunt tip
- Measuring tape
- Rustproof pins or blocking wires for gentle blocking
- Scissors
Stitches, spelled out
ch chain; dc double crochetDrape; sc single crochetDense; sc5tog single crochet five togetherDense; dc2tog double crochet two togetherDrape; sl st slip stitch; st/sts stitch/stitches; rep repeat; BLO back loop onlyRidge; RS right side; WS wrong side.
Tension and hand-feel
After the first few rows of the Cloud Lace sequence, lay the swatch flat and check that the fan row opens into visible gaps rather than pulling tight — the mesh should let light through without curling the edges.
If the fabric feels stiff or the fans refuse to spread, go up a hook size from the 4.5 mm US 7 called for; if the mesh sags and loses shape, drop down a size before committing to the full 88 rows.
Back Panel
Choose the stitch count for your size: Small: 63 stitches Medium: 71 stitches Large: 79 stitches XL: 87 stitches Chain N + 2. For example, the Medium begins with ch 73.
For Small, Medium, Large, and XL, the back panel begins with 63, 71, 79, or 87 stitches respectively. The shoulder sections are 21, 25, 29, or 33 stitches respectively if you use the same 21-stitch neckline opening. For a more generous neckline, you may enlarge the center opening while maintaining equal shoulder widths.
To keep the basic construction simple, the remaining shoulder sections are continued in solid double crochet. Work 11 additional rows on each shoulder, beginning with Row 90 and ending with Row 100. Fasten off each shoulder separately.
Front Panels
The front panels are deliberately narrower than the back. Work one left front and one right front using the same stitch sequence.
Small: 31 stitches Medium: 35 stitches Large: 39 stitches XL: 43 stitches Chain N + 2.
For the left front , the neck edge is the right-hand edge. On each shaping row, work dc across until two stitches remain, then work dc2tog across the final two stitches. For the right front , the neck edge is the left-hand edge. Work dc2tog across the first two stitches, then dc across the remaining stitches.
Beginning with N stitches on Row 90, ten neckline decreases reduce each front to N – 10 stitches at the shoulder. For the Medium size, this means 35 stitches become 25 shoulder stitches. Apply the same arithmetic to the other sizes.
Fasten off after Row 100. Make the second front panel as a mirror image of the first.
Special Stitches
sc5tog: Insert the hook into the first of five specified stitches, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat in each of the next four stitches so that six loops are on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all six loops. This turns a five-double-crochet fan into one single crochet.
dc2tog: Yarn over, insert the hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook.
Cloud Lace Stitch Repeat
The body and sleeve fabric use the same four-row sequence. Every panel begins with an odd number of stitches. Let N represent the current stitch count and R represent (N – 1) divided by 2.
Solid Row: Ch 2, turn. The ch-2 does not count as a stitch. Dc in the first stitch and dc in every stitch across. You have N dc.
Mesh Row: Ch 2, turn. Dc in the first stitch. Repeat [ch 1, skip the next stitch, dc in the next stitch] across. You have N dc and R chain-1 spaces.
Fan Row: Ch 2, turn. Dc in the first dc. Repeat [5 dc in the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc] across. You have 1 + (R × 6) stitches.
Reduction Row: Ch 2, turn. Dc in the first stitch. Repeat [sc5tog across the next five dc, dc in the next dc] across. You return to N stitches.
For example, with 35 stitches, R equals 17. The mesh row contains 17 chain-1 spaces. The fan row contains 17 five-dc fans and 18 single double crochets, for 103 stitches total. The reduction row turns each five-dc fan into one sc5tog, returning the row to 35 stitches.
Sleeves
The sleeves begin with a compact single-crochet ribbed cuff and then transition into the same airy lace texture. The increasing shape gives the sleeve a soft, roomy appearance.
Use these starting and final stitch counts: Small: start with 27 stitches and increase to 43 stitches Medium: start with 27 stitches and increase to 47 stitches
Large: start with 29 stitches and increase to 51 stitches XL: start with 29 stitches and increase to 55 stitches
Cuff
Chain the starting stitch count for your size.
Sleeve Body and Increases
Begin the Cloud Lace sequence with the current cuff stitch count. On each designated increase row, work 2 dc in the first stitch, dc across to the final stitch, then work 2 dc in the final stitch. This increases the stitch count by exactly two while preserving an odd stitch count for the lace repeat.
Small: Begin with 27 stitches. Increase on sleeve Rows 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, and 65. Each increase adds two stitches, producing 43 stitches after the eighth increase.
Medium: Begin with 27 stitches. Increase on sleeve Rows 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, 65, 73, and 81. After ten increases, you have 47 stitches.
Large: Begin with 29 stitches. Increase on sleeve Rows 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, 65, 73, 81, and 89. After eleven increases, you have 51 stitches.
XL: Begin with 29 stitches. Increase on sleeve Rows 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57, 65, 73, 81, 89, 97, and 105. After thirteen increases, you have 55 stitches.
For each size, continue the four-row Cloud Lace sequence between increase rows. Treat an increase row as the solid row of that repeat. After the final increase, continue the lace sequence without further increases until the sleeve measures approximately 19 in / 48 cm from the bottom of the cuff.
Because row gauge can vary significantly with fuzzy yarn, prioritize the finished measurement over an exact row number. End after a complete reduction row whenever possible so the sleeve edge remains stable.
Fasten off and make a second sleeve using the same instructions.
Attach the Sleeves
Turn each sleeve so the seam will sit along the underside of the arm.
Fold the sleeve panel lengthwise with the right side facing inward.
Seam the long sleeve edge from the cuff to the upper sleeve using mattress stitch or whip stitch.
Turn the sleeve right side out.
Center the sleeve seam with the cardigan side seam.
Pin the upper sleeve edge evenly around the armhole opening.
Use a yarn needle to sew the sleeve into the armhole. Distribute any slight difference in stitch and row counts evenly rather than creating visible gathers in one area.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Front and Neck Edging
A light edging helps stabilize the open front while keeping the delicate fabric flexible.
Join yarn at the lower front edge.
Ch 1, then work sc evenly up the front edge.
When you reach the back neckline, continue with sc around the neckline.
At each transition point between a front edge and neckline, work 2 sc in the corner area to prevent puckering.
Continue down the opposite front edge.
At the lower corner, work 2 sc in the corner area and join with a sl st to the beginning sc.
Edging Row 2: Ch 1, sc BLO around the entire front and neckline edging. Work 2 sc in each lower front corner. Join with a sl st.
Edging Row 3: Repeat Row 2 for a slightly more defined border, then fasten off.
Weave in all ends carefully on the wrong side. With mohair, avoid repeatedly pulling the yarn through the same small area because the halo can tangle. Thread the yarn through several nearby stitches, then trim the excess.
Blocking and Shaping
Gently blocking the finished cardigan can dramatically improve the lace texture. Lay the garment flat on a clean towel or blocking surface. Smooth the body panels, sleeves, and edging into their intended dimensions without stretching them aggressively.
Lightly mist the finished cardigan with cool or lukewarm water.
Pat the fabric into shape with your hands.
Check that the front edges are straight and the sleeves have matching lengths.
Pin only where needed to maintain the intended measurements.
Allow the garment to dry completely before removing the pins.
Do not use high heat on mohair or fuzzy specialty yarns. Excessive heat can damage delicate fibers and alter the texture of the halo.
Choosing Ease for the Best Fit
Measure around the fullest part of your bust while wearing the type of top you expect to layer underneath. Add approximately 4 to 8 in / 10 to 20 cm for a relaxed cardigan fit. Choose less ease if you want a neater silhouette, or more if you want an oversized style.
Since the shoulders are deliberately dropped, shoulder width is less critical than bust circumference and armhole depth. The open front also gives the finished garment additional visual flexibility.
How the texture is built
- The back panel runs the full 88 rows of Cloud Lace before the neckline shaping on row 89, which splits the row into two 25-stitch shoulder sections around a 21-stitch center opening left unworked and fastened off.
- All three main panels — back and both fronts — are worked flat from a foundation chain rather than in the round, which keeps the fan row's sc5tog decreases readable on a flat swatching surface and makes the seam-only-partway side join possible.
- The side seams are sewn upward only part of the panel height, leaving the top portion open; combined with sleeves worked separately from cuff to upper arm with gradual increases, this is what produces the drop armhole rather than a fitted set-in sleeve.
Putting the pieces together
If you swap the yarn
| Mohair-silk blend, lace weight, held double | Closest match to the original fabric — fine halo, lightest drape, same 4.5 mm US 7 hook and stitch counts hold without adjustment. |
|---|---|
| Brushed acrylic, fingering weight, held double | Softer on sensitive skin and machine washable, but the fabric sits slightly heavier with less airy drape; the fan row still opens cleanly on the same hook. |
| Lightweight wool blend, lace weight, single strand | Produces a flatter, less fuzzy surface where the mesh rows read more clearly as open squares; may need a half-size-down hook, such as 4 mm, to keep the fan from gaping too wide. |
Colorways
- Dusty tonal Dusty blush on both front panels, pale rose on the back panel, with the sleeves worked in the same blush as the fronts so the open front reads as one continuous tone against a slightly deeper back.
- Neutral layer Oatmeal across the back panel and sleeves, cream on the front panels, keeping the Front and Neck Edging in oatmeal to frame the open front in the same tone as the back.
Washing and blocking
Hand wash in cool water with minimal agitation, since mohair held double mats and felts under vigorous rubbing or wringing.
Dry the piece flat, never on a hanger — the fan rows and open mesh have no structure to resist stretching, and hanging will lengthen the garment over time.
Store folded once completely dry, keeping the Cloud Lace sections unstretched; reshape gently by hand if the fan row flattens from folding, rather than pulling the fabric taut.
When it does not look right
- the fan rows look tight and closed instead of open
- The sc5tog decrease is likely being worked too snugly, pulling the five-double-crochet fan shut; loosen tension on the final yarn-over-and-pull-through across all six loops, or move up a hook size.
- the back neckline opening sits uneven after row 89
- The two 25-stitch shoulder sections were not counted separately before fastening off the center 21 stitches; recount from the outer edge on both sides before rejoining yarn for the second shoulder.
- the side seam area gaps open or sags under the arm
- Side seams are only sewn partway up by design to create the drop armhole, but if the gap feels too large, extend the seam a few stitches higher without closing it fully, keeping the sleeve attachment width in mind.
Questions people ask
Why does the front of the cardigan have no button band?
The front panels are worked narrower than the back specifically so the open front hangs without closures. The drape of the mohair fabric, held open by the fan stitch, is meant to layer over a camisole or T-shirt rather than close at the center.
Can the neckline opening be made wider than the 21 stitches given?
Yes — the pattern allows enlarging the center opening as long as the two shoulder sections stay equal in width. Adjust the fastened-off center stitch count on row 89 and recalculate the shoulder stitches from the total for your size.
Does holding the yarn double change the hook size needed?
The pattern is built around lace-weight mohair held double on a 4.5 mm US 7 hook, which is larger than a single strand of lace weight would normally use. If only one strand is held, a smaller hook will be needed to keep the fan row from gaping.
How much ease should be chosen for a looser or closer fit?
The finished measurements are garment measurements, not body measurements, and the design expects roughly 4 to 8 inches of positive ease beyond the actual bust for a relaxed, layered fit. Sizing down the ease will make the open front sit closer but will not change the drop armhole depth.
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