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Granny square tote with join-as-you-go navy borders
Drape Bags

14 rounds · filed under drape · 4 of them

RidgeLaceDenseDrapeNo feel

Bags · added 22 Oct 2026

Granny square tote with join-as-you-go navy borders

Dense dc clusters build a firm grid fabric; boxed corners and a sturdy cotton base shape this granny square tote bag.

Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
5.0 mm
Yarn
Worsted
Rounds
7

About this pattern

Under the hand this fabric sits dense and a little stiff, the opposite of a drapey shawl. Each granny square is built from 3-dc clusters packed into ch-2 corners, and cotton yarn locks those stitches into a grid that holds its shape without sagging. Run a finger across a finished square and you feel ridges where the clusters stack, not a smooth surface — that texture is what keeps the bag from collapsing in on itself once it has weight inside it.

The squares join into a flat grid, then the bottom corners get boxed to turn that flat panel into a bag with real depth — 14 inches wide, 11 inches tall (body only, excluding handles), with a 4-inch gusset. Leather strap handles add roughly 8 inches (20 cm) of drop above the body. Once assembled and blocked, it is built to carry things: books, groceries, whatever needs a bag that stands upright on its own rather than slumping sideways on a hook.

The swatch in numbers

Rounds
7
Parts
2
Level
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
5.0 mm
Yarn
Worsted

The yarn and the hook

Yarn (Worsted Weight, Category 4)

  1. Color A, Navy Blue: 350 yards (320 m)
  2. Color B, Teal: 180 yards (165 m)
  3. Color C, Mint or Seafoam: 180 yards (165 m)
  4. Color D, Tan or Camel: 150 yards (137 m)
  5. Total approximate yardage: 860 yards (787 m)

Hook

  1. US size H/8 (5.0 mm)

Notions

  1. 2 sets of leather strap handles with buckle hardware, approximately 18 inches (46 cm) long, tan or cognac color, with brass rivets
  2. 1 yard (0.9 m) teal macrame cord or thick cotton rope, approximately 4 mm diameter, for wrapping the handle attachment point
  3. Yarn needle
  4. Scissors
  5. Stitch markers, at least 4
  6. Sewing needle and heavy duty thread or waxed linen thread for hardware attachment
  7. Optional: bag base insert made from plastic canvas or cardboard, cut to 14 x 4 inches (35.5 x 10 cm)

Stitches, spelled out

ch chain; sl st slip stitch; sc single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)Dense; dc double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)Drape; sp space; ch-sp chain spaceLace; rep repeat; sk skip; st(s) stitch(es); RS right side; WS wrong side; yo yarn over; BLO back loop onlyRidge; rnd round.

Tension and hand-feel

In standard double crochet (dc): 14 dc and 8 rows equals 4 inches (10 cm) with a US size H/8 (5.0 mm) hook and worsted weight cotton.

After blocking a single granny square through Round 5, lay a ruler across it — it should measure 3.25 inches by 3.25 inches.

Main Pattern

This bag uses two colorway arrangements distributed across 30 total squares in a checkerboard pattern. Colorway 1 (make 15 squares): Round 1 Color D (Tan), Round 2 Color B (Teal), Round 3 Color C (Mint), Round 4 Color C (Mint), Round 5 Color A (Navy). Colorway 2 (make 15 squares): Round 1 Color B (Teal), Round 2 Color D (Tan), Round 3 Color C (Mint), Round 4 Color B (Teal), Round 5 Color A (Navy). Color A, the navy, is always the final border round of every square, which creates the dominant navy grid visible in the finished bag.

Each square is worked in continuous rounds with a standing stitch or chain 3 start at each new color round, joined with a slip stitch to the top of the starting ch-3 unless otherwise noted, all on the right side. Granny Cluster (3-dc cluster): yarn over, insert hook into the indicated chain space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (2 loops remain). Yarn over, insert hook into the same chain space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (3 loops remain). Yarn over, insert hook into the same chain space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (4 loops remain). Yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook. One granny cluster complete.

Round 1With first color of chosen colorway Make a magic ring, or ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring.Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 2 dc into ring, ch 2. Work 3 dc into ring, ch 2 3 times. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off.(4 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces) (12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 2With second color of chosen colorway Join yarn with sl st into any ch-2 corner sp.Ch 3, work 2 dc into same sp, ch 2, work 3 dc into same sp. This creates the first corner.Ch 1.Work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1.Rep from to 2 more times.Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off.(8 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 4 ch-1 sps) (24 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)
Round 3With third color of chosen colorway Join yarn with sl st into any ch-2 corner sp.Ch 3, work 2 dc into same sp, ch 2, work 3 dc into same sp.Ch 1, work 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1.Work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, work 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1.Rep from to 2 more times.Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off.(12 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 8 ch-1 sps) (36 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps)
Round 4With fourth color of chosen colorway Join yarn with sl st into any ch-2 corner sp.Ch 3, work 2 dc into same sp, ch 2, work 3 dc into same sp.Ch 1, work 3 dc into next ch-1 sp twice, ch 1.Work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, work 3 dc into next ch-1 sp twice, ch 1.Rep from to 2 more times.Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off.(16 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 12 ch-1 sps) (48 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps)
Round 5Color A, navy, joining round This round adds one more cluster per side, completing the square border. If working a standalone square, work as written. If joining to an adjacent square, use the join-as-you-go method at each shared edge.Join-as-you-go Side Join: when the pattern instructs to join to an adjacent completed square, replace the ch 2 at a corner or the ch 1 between clusters with a sl st join worked into the corresponding ch-sp of the neighboring square. Work ch 1, sl st into the corresponding ch-sp of the adjacent square, ch 1 at corners. This creates a flat seam visible on the wrong side and a clean line on the right side.Join Color A with sl st into any ch-2 corner sp.Ch 3, work 2 dc into same sp, ch 2, work 3 dc into same sp.Ch 1, work 3 dc into next ch-1 sp 3 times, ch 1.Work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, work 3 dc into next ch-1 sp 3 times, ch 1.Rep from to 2 more times.Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off.(20 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 16 ch-1 sps) (60 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 16 ch-1 sps)

Finished square measures 3.25 inches by 3.25 inches (8.25 cm by 8.25 cm) after a light blocking.

Ribbing Band

The ribbing band is worked as a flat strip and seamed into a tube. The top opening circumference is approximately 36 inches (91.5 cm). Working ch 1, sc in BLO of each stitch across, turn, creates the stretchy ribbing texture along the top of the bag.

With Color A and US size H/8 (5.0 mm) hook, chain 13.

Row 1Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (12 sc)
Row 2Ch 1, sc in BLO of each sc across. Turn. (12 sc) Repeat Row 2 until the strip measures 36 inches (91.5 cm) long, approximately 100 rows.Fold into a ring and sl st the short ends together to form a tube.Pin the ribbing band to the top edge of the bag body, matching seams at corners. Whip stitch the bottom edge of the ribbing to the top edge of the bag body. Fold the ribbing band down over the outside of the bag approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) to create a reinforced attachment zone.

How the texture is built

  • Each granny square grows from a center ring outward, with all increases falling at the four ch-2 corner spaces — this is what keeps the motif square rather than round as rounds are added.
  • The ribbing band is worked flat as a long strip rather than in the round because it needs to stretch around a 36-inch top opening before being seamed into a tube, which is easier to control row by row than as a continuous circle.
  • The join-as-you-go method replaces a corner's ch-2 or a side's chain with a connection directly into a neighboring finished square, so the grid locks together without a separate seaming pass afterward.

Putting the pieces together

Step 1Count out 30 finished squares total: 12 for the front panel (4 across, 3 down), 12 for the back panel (4 across, 3 down), 3 for the left gusset panel (1 across, 3 down), and 3 for the right gusset panel (1 across, 3 down).
Step 2Arrange each panel in a checkerboard pattern. For the front and back panels (4 squares wide, 3 squares tall): Row 1 (top): CW1, CW2, CW1, CW2. Row 2 (middle): CW2, CW1, CW2, CW1. Row 3 (bottom): CW1, CW2, CW1, CW2. For the left and right gusset panels (1 square wide, 3 squares tall): Row 1: CW2. Row 2: CW1. Row 3: CW2.
Step 3Join squares using the join-as-you-go method on Round 5, or sew together with Color A using a whip stitch through both loops on the wrong side if all squares were completed before joining.
Step 4Weave in all remaining ends securely. Cotton yarn does not grip as firmly as wool, so weave in at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) in each direction.
Step 5Wet block the assembled bag by filling it with plastic bags or towels to hold its shape. Allow to dry completely, which takes 24 to 48 hours for cotton.
Step 6For the optional bag base insert, cut plastic canvas or stiff cardboard to 13.5 by 3.5 inches (34.25 by 9 cm).
Step 7Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water using a mesh laundry bag. Lay flat to dry. Do not put in the dryer. If leather handles get wet, allow them to air dry and condition afterward.

If you swap the yarn

100% cotton, DK weightSquares come out slightly smaller and softer-edged than worsted; sizing up to a US I/9 hook keeps gauge close to the stated 3.25-inch square
Cotton-linen blend, worsted weightStitches sit stiffer and squares resist curling at the corners, but the linen content means less give when blocking the gusset into shape
Acrylic-cotton blend, worsted weightDrape loosens and the bag holds its shape less firmly on its own, so the optional plastic canvas base insert becomes more important for keeping the bottom flat

Colorways

  • Colorway 1 (make 15 squares) Round 1: Color D (Tan). Round 2: Color B (Teal). Round 3: Color C (Mint). Round 4: Color C (Mint). Round 5: Color A (Navy).
  • Colorway 2 (make 15 squares) Round 1: Color B (Teal). Round 2: Color D (Tan). Round 3: Color C (Mint). Round 4: Color B (Teal). Round 5: Color A (Navy).
  • Checkerboard distribution Color A, the navy, is always the final border round of every square, creating the dominant navy grid visible in the finished bag. The two colorways are distributed across 30 total squares in a checkerboard pattern across the front, back, and gusset panels.

Washing and blocking

Wash the finished tote on a gentle cycle in cold water inside a mesh laundry bag, since cotton holds its weave tightly but can still pill if agitated against zippers or hardware.

Dry completely flat rather than hanging, and expect 24 to 48 hours given how slowly cotton releases water compared to synthetic fibers.

Reshape while still damp by stuffing the bag with towels or plastic bags to hold the gusset depth, since cotton sets into whatever shape it dries in.

When it does not look right

The granny squares come out noticeably
The clusters are being worked too tightly around the ch-2 corners; go up one hook size rather than trying to loosen tension by hand.
The bottom of the bag won't sit flat and the corners pucker
The corner-boxing step at assembly was skipped or not pulled fully square; re-seam the boxed corners and block with the optional plastic canvas insert in place to train the base flat.
Color changes leave small gaps or holes
The new color was joined without snugging the first stitch tight against the old; pull the join stitch firm before working the ch-3 that starts the next round.

Questions people ask

Is the plastic canvas base insert required?

No, it is listed as optional in the assembly steps. Without it the bag relies on the cotton fabric and boxed corners alone to hold its base shape, which works but gives slightly less rigidity underfoot.

Why does the pattern call for cotton instead of acrylic?

Cotton has less stretch and more weight than acrylic, which is exactly what keeps the boxed corners and grid structure from sagging once the bag carries anything. Acrylic would drape softer and lose that structured stand.

How many granny squares does the tote actually need?

The bag needs 30 squares total: 12 for the front panel, 12 for the back panel, and 3 each for the left and right gusset panels, each measuring 3.25 by 3.25 inches blocked against a finished bag that is 14 inches wide and 11 inches tall. Counting squares against the finished width and height before starting helps confirm yardage per color is enough.

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