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Strawberry sundae bobble beanie crochet pattern
Dense Hats and Beanies

25 rounds · filed under dense · 17 of them

SquishRidgeDenseNo feel

Hats and Beanies · added 2 Oct 2026

Strawberry sundae bobble beanie crochet pattern

Bobble stitch builds a raised, whipped-cream texture under your fingers on a ribbed-brim beanie with a strawberry band.

Skill
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
6.0 mm
Yarn
Worsted
Rounds
21

About this pattern

Run a hand over the middle of this beanie and you feel raised knots pushing up against your palm, rows of them staggered like stitching on a quilt. That's the bobble stitch at work: each one pulls several loops through a single stitch and closes them off together, so the fabric puffs outward instead of lying flat. Between the bobble rounds, plain single crochet rounds flatten back out, so your hand reads a rhythm of smooth, bump, smooth as it travels up the hat.

The hat builds as a tube from a ribbed brim up through a cream body, a white bobble band, a red strawberry round, and a cream crown that draws in to close at the top. The ribbed brim starts flat and seams into a circle, giving the base more stretch and recovery than the rounds above it, so it's the part that actually grips the head. Pull it onto a head to check the fit before you commit to the crown decreases, since the dome above it is shaped rounds with no second chances.

The swatch in numbers

Rounds
21
Parts
5
Level
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
6.0 mm
Yarn
Worsted

The yarn and the hook

Yarn (all worsted weight)

  1. Color A, Cream/off-white: approximately 150 yards (137 m)
  2. Color B, Red: approximately 80 yards (73 m)
  3. Color C, White: approximately 70 yards (64 m)
  4. Color D, Pink: approximately 40 yards (37 m)
  5. Color E, Dark Red/Burgundy: approximately 15 yards (14 m)
  6. Color F, Yellow: approximately 8 yards (7 m)
  7. Color G, Brown: approximately 5 yards (5 m)
  8. Color H, Green: approximately 5 yards (5 m)
  9. Color I, Pink for pom-pom: approximately 30 yards (27 m), bulky weight or doubled worsted

Hooks

  1. US Size J-10 (6.0 mm) for main hat body
  2. US Size G-6 (4.0 mm) for stem and leaf

Notions

  1. Yarn needle (tapestry needle)
  2. Scissors
  3. Stitch markers (at least 4)
  4. Pom-pom maker or two cardboard rings, approximately 3 to 3.5 inches (7.5 to 9 cm) diameter
  5. Ruler or measuring tape

Yarn suggestions

  1. Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice works beautifully for this project. The stitch definition is excellent, which makes those bobbles really pop. Red Heart Super Saver is a budget-friendly alternative with plenty of color options. If you prefer DK weight yarn, use a US Size H-8 (5.0 mm) hook and swatch carefully.

Stitches, spelled out

ch chain; sl st slip stitch; sc single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)Dense; hdc half double crochetDense; dc double crochetDrape; st(s) stitch(es); RS right side; WS wrong side; pm place marker; rep repeat; rem remaining; sc2tog single crochet two together (a decrease that joins two stitches into one)Dense; MR magic ringDense; blo back loop onlyRidge; flo front loop onlyRidge; sk skip; Bobble Stitch (bo-st) This creates the puffy whipped cream texture. In one stitch, work 5 incomplete double crochets. Here’s exactly how: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. You now have 2 loops on your hook. Repeat this 4 more times in the same stitch. You’ll have 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops at once. One bobble complete. The bobble naturally pushes to the wrong side of your work, so you’ll flip the hat inside out while working this section.Squish; Standing Single Crochet Make a slip knot with new yarn, insert hook into the designated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. This gives you a clean color change without a joining chain.Dense; Surface Slip Stitch Hold yarn behind the fabric. Insert hook from front to back, draw up a loop, insert hook at the next point along your line, draw up another loop and pull through the first. Continue to create a chain on the fabric surface. This creates the sauce drizzle and frosting drip outlines.; Drip Loop Detail While working a surface slip stitch drip line, chain 5 to 7 and slip stitch back into the same point. This creates the rounded bottom of a dripping effect..

Tension and hand-feel

After the first two rounds of Section 2, lay the tube flat and measure 4 inches across the single crochet rows: you should count 14 stitches and 16 rows in that span.

If your stitch count runs higher than 14 per 4 inches, the fabric is coming in tight and dense, so go up a hook size; if it runs lower, the fabric is loose and drapey, so drop down a size before you reach the bobble section.

Section 1: Brim (Color A, Cream)

The brim is worked as a flat ribbed rectangle, then seamed into a tube. This creates that stretchy, professional-looking ribbed edge.

Foundation chain: Ch 9.

This creates the pink separator between the white cream and red strawberry sections. The drip details get added during finishing.

Round 1Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (8 sc)
Round 2Ch 1, sc in blo of each st across. Turn. (8 sc) Repeat Row 2 until your piece measures 22 inches (56 cm) from the start. The ribbing compresses naturally, so your unstretched measurement should be approximately 21 to 22 inches (53 to 56 cm).Fold the strip so the short ends meet. Sl st through both loops to seam the short ends together, creating a tube. Do not cut yarn.Rotate the brim so the top long edge faces up.Pickup Round: Work 80 sc evenly around the top edge of the brim. Sl st to first sc to join. (80 sc)Place a stitch marker in the first stitch and move it up each round.Checkpoint: Your brim tube should measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) tall with 80 stitches in your working round.

Section 2: Lower Hat Body, Cream Transition (Color A)

Round 1Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (80 sc)
Round 2Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (80 sc) These 2 rounds create a smooth transition to the bobble section.

Section 3: Whipped Cream Bobble Section (Color C, White)

Important: Flip your hat inside out before starting this section. The bobbles push away from you as you work, so with the wrong side facing out, they’ll end up on the outside of the finished hat.

Join Color C with a standing sc.

Round 3Ch 1. Work (bo-st in first st, sc in next st) around. Sl st to first st. (40 bo-st, 40 sc = 80 sts)
Round 4Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (80 sc)
Round 5Ch 1. Work (sc in first st, bo-st in next st) around. Sl st to join. (40 sc, 40 bo-st = 80 sts)
Round 6Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (80 sc)Round 7: Rep Round 3. (80 sts)
Round 8Rep Round 4. (80 sc)Round 9: Rep Round 5. (80 sts)
Round 10Rep Round 4. (80 sc) Turn your hat right-side out. Those beautiful bobbles should now face outward like fluffy whipped cream.Checkpoint: The hat body from the pickup round should measure approximately 3.5 to 4 inches (9 to 10 cm) tall with 80 stitches.

Section 5: Red Strawberry Section (Color B, Red)

Join Color B with a standing sc.

Round 13through 18: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (80 sc each round) Work 6 rounds total in red. This section should measure approximately 1.5 to 1.75 inches (3.8 to 4.5 cm) tall. The yellow seed embroidery gets added during finishing.

Checkpoint: Total hat height should be approximately 5.5 to 6 inches (14 to 15 cm) from the brim pickup edge.

Section 6: Upper Cream Dome and Crown Shaping (Color A, Cream)

Join Color A with a standing sc.

Round 19through 22: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. (80 sc each round)(80)

Now begin crown shaping:

Round 23Ch 1. (Sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (72 sc)
Round 24Ch 1. (Sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (64 sc)
Round 25Ch 1. (Sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (56 sc)
Round 26Ch 1. (Sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (48 sc)
Round 27Ch 1. (Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (40 sc)
Round 28Ch 1. (Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (32 sc)
Round 29Ch 1. (Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (24 sc)
Round 30Ch 1. (Sc in next st, sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (16 sc)
Round 31Ch 1. (Sc2tog) 8 times. Sl st to first sc. (8 sc) Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail. Thread onto yarn needle and weave through remaining 8 sts. Pull tight to close the crown. Knot securely and weave in end.

Checkpoint: Total hat height from brim pickup edge should be approximately 9 to 9.5 inches (23 to 24 cm).

How the texture is built

  • The brim is worked flat as a short ribbed rectangle and then seamed into a tube, which is why it reads differently under the hand than the rest of the hat: that seam line is what lets the row-by-row ribbing stretch around a head instead of fighting the join.
  • Section 3 alternates bobble and single crochet placement between Round 3 and Round 5, so the bumps land in a staggered, brick-like pattern rather than stacking directly on top of each other round after round.
  • Every round in Sections 2, 3, and 5 closes with a slip stitch to the first stitch, which keeps the round count exact at 80 stitches throughout the body so the bobble pattern and the strawberry band line up cleanly before crown shaping starts.

Putting the pieces together

Step 1Sauce Drizzle Loops on Crown (Color E, Dark Red/Burgundy): With the right side facing, use Color E to work surface slip stitches across the cream dome in a radiating pattern. Work from the crown center outward in curved lines, approximately 8 to 10 lines reaching toward the strawberry band. At the end of each line, chain 4 to 6 and slip stitch back into the same point to create small loops. This is worked freehand, so follow the photos for placement guidance.
Step 2Pink Frosting Drips: Using Color D and surface slip stitch, work 7 to 9 drip shapes evenly spaced around the hat where the pink section meets the white bobble section. For each drip: Insert hook at the bottom edge of the pink section. Work a surface slip stitch line downward for 3 to 5 stitches into the white section. At the base, ch 5, sl st back into the same point to create a rounded drip. Work back up with surface slip stitch. Space drips approximately every 9 to 11 stitches around.
Step 3Yellow Seed Embroidery: Thread Color F onto your yarn needle. Using small horizontal straight stitches approximately 3 to 4 mm long, scatter seed shapes randomly across the red strawberry section (Rounds 13 to 18). Aim for 35 to 50 seeds at slight angles for a natural look.
Step 4Cherry Pom-Pom Topper Assembly: Step 1: Create a pom-pom with Color I, approximately 2.5 to 3 inches (6.5 to 7.5 cm) in diameter. Leave long tails for attaching. Step 2: Make the stem with Color G and G-6 hook. Make a magic ring, sl st to close, ch 8. Sl st down each ch back to the ring. Fasten off with a long tail. Step 3: Make the leaf with Color H and G-6 hook. Ch 6. Sl st into 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st into last ch. Fasten off with a long tail. Step 4: Attach stem to top of pom-pom by threading the tail through the center and knotting securely. Step 5: Attach leaf to the base of the stem. Step 6: Attach completed cherry to the crown by threading pom-pom tails through the crown closing point. Knot inside the hat and weave in ends. Weave in all remaining tails throughout the hat.

If you swap the yarn

Acrylic worsted weightClosest match to the gauge given; holds the bobble stitch shape crisply and keeps the J-10 (6.0 mm) hook as specified.
Wool-blend worsted weightAdds loft and a softer, slightly fuzzy bobble texture; may need a half-size smaller hook since wool blocks and relaxes more than acrylic.

Colorways

  • Classic sundae Color A cream on the brim, lower body, and upper dome; Color C white through the bobble section; Color B red for the strawberry round; Color D pink as the thin separator; Color E burgundy for the surface slip stitch drizzle.
  • Monochrome texture Use Color A cream for the brim, lower body, bobble section, and strawberry round alike, saving Color B red only for the surface slip stitch drizzle lines, so the bobble texture reads as the main feature instead of the color blocking.

Washing and blocking

Hand wash in cool water if using a wool-blend substitute, or machine wash gentle in cool water for the acrylic version named in the materials list.

Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, since a wet bobble section is heavier than the plain rounds and can pull the crown out of shape if left suspended.

Store the finished hat unfolded or loosely stuffed with tissue paper so the bobbles keep their raised profile instead of flattening under the weight of other folded items.

When it does not look right

The bobbles end up on the inside of the hat instead of poking outward
Section 3 must be worked with the hat flipped inside out, since bobbles push away from the working side; turn it right-side out again once the section is complete.
The ribbed brim won't stretch to fit over the head
The foundation chain and row count for the brim set its final seamed circumference, so check your row tension against the Section 1 instructions before seaming; a tight gauge here makes the whole brim stiff rather than stretchy.
The strawberry band or bobble rounds don't line up with the body below
A missed stitch in Round 1 or 2 of Section 2 throws off the 80-stitch count that every later round depends on; recount before starting Section 3 rather than after it.

Questions people ask

What happens if the bobble rounds come out looser than the plain rounds?

Bobble stitches naturally pull in more than single crochet, so some tightening between Round 3 and Round 4 is normal. Check it against the bobble gauge of 12 bobble stitches and 8 rounds per 4 inches rather than comparing it directly to the plain sc rounds.

Can this hat be resized for a smaller head?

Yes, the pattern notes a child size adjustment by shortening the brim strip to roughly 19 to 20 inches for a 19 to 23 inch head circumference range. The bobble and crown sections stay structurally the same, so only the brim length and overall round counts shift.

Why does the brim get worked flat instead of in the round like the rest of the hat?

Working the ribbed brim as a flat strip and seaming it afterward produces a different stitch orientation than the joined rounds above it, which is what gives it the stretchy, ribbed quality underfoot of a head rather than a plain round edge. The rest of the hat is worked in joined rounds because that's what lets the bobble and strawberry bands wrap evenly around the tube.

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